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Wait, you have hardware that can read disks? As in floppy disks? That's impressive! 
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I even got a 5.25" floppy unit! To use it, I have to boot up that old XP machine, and I haven't done that for a couple of years, so I will not guarantee that it will work. The machine even has an IDE hard disk interface, but I was an early adopter of both USB and SATA disks.
For the 3.5" floppies: For future proofing, I bought a USB reader. There is a small problem with the old floppies: When you format the floppies, a code indicating which format (360K, 720K, 1.44M) in the boot sector. The major floppy manufacturers started selling 'preformatted' floppies, saving the users several minutes per new floppy. However, several of them did format the disc sectors, but didn't write the format code in the boot sector.
DOS and early Windows said 'No format code? We'll have to try to read the floppy with all the alternatives; maybe one will be successful'. Usually it was. At some point in time (most likely in the switch from 16 to 32 bits; I am not sure) Microsoft decided: No! The format code should be there, otherwise the floppy is not formatted according to the standard. We will no more make repeated tries like we used to.
In principle, I think that was a wise decision. But it left me with a large number of floppies reporting 'Disk is not formatted - do you want to format it?' I was thinking of learning to write a floppy disk driver to do that myself, but none of the floppies were important enough to justify the effort. That XP machine could probably be booted with DOS, but even that is too much effort 
Religious freedom is the freedom to say that two plus two make five.
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trønderen wrote: For the 3.5" floppies: For future proofing, I bought a USB reader.
When my previous employer shut down I salvaged a USB floppy drive from the laptop bag one of our salesguys was using. I didn't even know at the time they existed. Tried it with a few floppies I still had - worked fine.
It's been in a drawer since (and given how long I've been at my current employer, that must be close to 20 years now). I think I've used it exactly once, and that was probably to create a .flp file (think .ISO but for diskettes).
I checked on Amazon a while ago - they're still out there (the USB readers, that is).
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Ah, the days of the 8-bit color map and 14.4k dial-up modems ...
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I've always known about this and jumped to answer, but I've never actually had to use it and I have no idea how that is possible. Mostly I'm use to seeing it when trying to make old games run in newer windows versions.
I guess the games I've wanted to revive have just never been THAT old.
Makes sense, that's like CGA I think. Original King's Quest stuff.
I'm pretty sure the recent article from the BBC poste here about computer addicts... I think it shows the exact same game that Tom Hanks is playing at the beginning of Big. It looks CGA.
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I bought a pair of Merrell Moab 3 waterproof boots 13 months ago
and the sole around the toe area is spiting from the boot
OK Merrell said 12 months for return
I have another pair that is 8 years old that the Vibram sole is warn flat gone
Merrell told me they would give me a 30% discount
Just select the item I want and respond to an email they sent me
The issue is I can not make a purchase on the website without a phone number
I have suggested I am prepared to take this to court
My step daughter sued 3M for damaging the water supply in the US and other countries
YES the law firm team won
Merrell told me to ask a friend or neighbor for a phone number!
Any one what to loan me a phone number ?
OR should I just make up a phone number ?
Issue my real phone number is more than likely linked to my Chase Credit Card
OR just shut up and stop being a grumpy OLD man
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Google Voice
>64
It’s weird being the same age as old people. Live every day like it is your last; one day, it will be.
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Choroid wrote: My step daughter sued 3M for damaging the water supply in the US and other countries
YES the law firm team won
Seems unlikely. First of course would be what is known as 'standing'.
Now perhaps she was part of a class action suit in the US. Or she is some participant in a government entity, which is the most recent one I found when searching.
But I doubt you can do the same for a retail product unless you can find a warranty that says they will last longer than 12 months. And then find a law firm willing to front you as the primary in a class action lawsuit. Expect probably 10 years before you get anything from that though.
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jschell wrote: ... class action lawsuit. Expect probably 10 years before you get anything from that though.
And most of what you get will be eaten up by lawyer's fees.
Freedom is the freedom to say that two plus two make four. If that is granted, all else follows.
-- 6079 Smith W.
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Tell me about Lawyer Fee's
My father remarried he had a will that was written when he was married to my mother
before her death
New wife's family got my father to write a new will at the time he was failing
from Alzheimer and I was written out of the will
When he died in December it was the following year in April when I was notified of his death my child hood home in Ohio was in my name my father died in California
$25,000.00 later I retained the house and property
some of the investment accounts real killer they tried to forge my signature on
a life insurance policy
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Choroid wrote: New wife's family got my father to write a new will at the time he was failing
from Alzheimer...they tried to forge my signature on
That is all criminal rather than civil. So you should file a compliant.
With a brief google by me also seems that California law means that one cannot profit from a criminal activity which this would apply if convicted.
And after conviction, even a for a minor charge, I suspect you can file a civil suit to recoup monetary losses that you paid while protecting yourself.
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Daniel Pfeffer wrote: And most of what you get will be eaten up by lawyer's fees.
Sort of.
First of course the OP is talking about a pair of boots.
But, as far as I know, as the primary in a class action one gets quite a bit of the judgement. Lots to the lawyers, but more than just what a pair of boots are.
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You are correct collaboration with the Feds
I agree just rattled my cage asking me to use someone else's phone number
and demanding a phone number to make a purchase
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Choroid wrote: I have suggested I am prepared to take this to court
If you are determined to sue, AND the sum is worth your time and effort, you may wish to try small claims court. Just remember that going to Law has costs above the financial. Even if you win, you may lose when your time, effort, and aggravation are taken into account.
Choroid wrote: Issue my real phone number is more than likely linked to my Chase Credit Card
OR just shut up and stop being a grumpy OLD man
They probably want it so they can send you spam texts. Just block any that you receive.
Your credit card is presumably linked to your phone number (so the company can contact you in the case of possible fraud). Even if you use your credit card to pay your phone bill, that information should not be stored by the phone company. In any case, if the phone or the credit card companies' billing records are hacked, you have bigger problems than a bit of spam...
Freedom is the freedom to say that two plus two make four. If that is granted, all else follows.
-- 6079 Smith W.
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Been down that road Amazon and Chase got hacked and my phone number
for my Credit Card went along for the ride
I exceeded the number of blocked phone numbers permitted on the phone
That is why no more phone numbers
Verizon has the phone number not sure what they do with it
take care and stay safe Daniel
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How hard is it to get a "burner" phone in your locality?
Here I could walk into a shop, grab a cheapie that comes with prepaid SIM and a number. No ID required.
Or get a SIM-only deal so I don't have to ditch the handset.
Software rusts. Simon Stephenson, ca 1994. So does this signature. me, 2012
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I have some old phones one was tied to Verizon
can I buy a sim card only and install that in the phone
OR will I need a Verizon Plan ? Or use the prepaid plan ?
Thanks for the reply
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Sorry, no idea of the USA scene. I'm downunder, way across the Pacific.
Here, some handsets are locked to a carrier, some (usually more expensive, duh!) are unlocked.
Software rusts. Simon Stephenson, ca 1994. So does this signature. me, 2012
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Choroid wrote: my real phone number is more than likely linked to my Chase Credit Card
So what?
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I agree it should not be an issue except
I bought a refrigerator from Home Depot 3 month ago
and because I gave them a bogus phone number my credit card was not accepted
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Choroid wrote: I gave them a bogus phone number my credit card was not accepted
You win some, you lose some. 
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I also hold high opinions about the quality of KNOWLEDGE of this forum...
( monetary gifts optional / beer OK )
I am an OF who lost the LAST ignition working key... end of story.
My "friend" mentioned $4000 "computer" THEY (?) use to solve the missing key problem ...
This "computer" connect to the vehicle via OBD hardware, EVERY car is E/W.
Would it be too high of a goal to learn
everything I always wanted to know HOW to use (PROGRAM !) OBD
to "program the responder ignition key "
AND
is (currently ?) a guarded secret limited to " only need to know " dealership etc. "
" there must be a pony here somewhere ..."
How about starting with "OBD specification " ?
Cheers
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Well, I know a (very) little about this which could provide an idea towards the next step.
This is not the solution you are looking for but it may provide insight as to possibility or not.
Here's my experience.
I had an old Chevy Equinox which we had lost the extra fob and key for.
Dealer wanted $300 for new key.
Along comes Amazon, years later (after only having one key for a long time) which sells the extra uncut keys which contain the programmable part of the key.
I went to Lowes and they cut the key for FREE. Wow!
I then went to the car and put the original key (I know you don't have this) in, turned to accessory or something, then tapped the gas pedal four times then take out original.
After that I put the new cut key (as yet unprogrammed) into the ignition and followed some similar ritual (turned to accessory & then pumped gas pedal 4 times) and voila! The new key was programmed.
Now, what I learned was that it was programmed from the old key sitting there. The old key apparently had to be "in range" to the new one when you do this.
But think about how simple that was (took about 5 minutes) and the Dealer, of course wanted $300.
So terrible.
Anyways, maybe this tells you something more about whether or not what you're thinking is possible.
It may at least give you some ideas.
I'm sorry I don't have more to help you with. Good luck!
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I recently watched a video where a mechanic hooked up a laptop and could diagnose cold-starting issues. (no signal to the coils when air temperature is below 20F degrees) The guy does a great job diagnosing the problem.
Anyhow, he replaced the ECU and had to reprogram the keys. I just looked it back up.
Dealer Couldn't fix it...for 5 YEARS!! (Nissan No-Start when COLD) - YouTube[^]
"Go forth into the source" - Neal Morse
"Hope is contagious"
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Great video - thanks! I'm looking into the same product he is using for my new car. For every car I've ever owned, I purchased the shop manual; not the trash sold by Chilton or Haynes, but the real manual used by the dealer. Lately the manuals have been on CDs rather than printed, but the cost has been about the same, around $250US. This latest car, a Nissan Rogue, is a problem, as they no longer will sell the manual but will only allow me to subscribe to an online version of it. I wouldn't mind that but they now want to charge me almost $1000 a year to access it!
This Alldata solution is about $60 a year, and is a far better product from what I can see.
Will Rogers never met me.
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