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It was released in the UK this week.
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Who is your most likely super hero ?
நெஞ்சு பொறுக்கு திலையே-இந்த
நிலைகெட்ட மனிதரை நினைந்துவிட்டால்
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At last someone who speaks English! I am waiting for theater tickets... Will definitely watch the movie.
The sh*t I complain about
It's like there ain't a cloud in the sky and it's raining out - Eminem
~! Firewall !~
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For Biggle's birthday, she and three friends are off to the cinema this after. The choice was Ultron or Stupid Period Drama.
They chose the later. Girls!
veni bibi saltavi
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Maybe your girls. Mine all chose Age of Ultron.
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Anyone tried this service and have anything good or bad to say about it? Looking for a Google Code replacement I can use with SVN, and I have no desire to use git for home projects where I'm the only dev.
Jeremy Falcon
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You need to Git with the program.
I have not used RiouxsSVN. Sorry.
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There's always one way to found out if it's good or not. I'm just going to give it a go.
Jeremy Falcon
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Not used - but I use tamForge and have nothing but praise - something for free that works!
PooperPig - Coming Soon
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I'll look into it. Thanks!
Jeremy Falcon
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Jeremy Falcon wrote: have no desire to use git for home projects where I'm the only dev Why not? I've been using Git for my single man projects for years. I use BitBucket for my off-site repos.
No object is so beautiful that, under certain conditions, it will not look ugly. - Oscar Wilde
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Mainly because I don't like the available Windows GUI clients for it. Yeah I know it's nitpicky, but that's me. I'm a bit of UI guy, so it's tough to use a SCM that has an ugly GUI.
Jeremy Falcon
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Not yet man, but I'll take a look at it. Thanks.
Jeremy Falcon
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I am building a 'potting table' for the missus and have opted for a concrete top. The table frame is complete and I have built the form for the concrete top and before actually purchasing materials, thought I would seek advice from this worldly community.
First, the dimensions:
L=63''
W=29''
Currently, the form is 1.5'' thick, conveniently the thickness of a standard (milled) 2x4. This thickness is also at the bottom end of several DIY resources I found so:
Q: I'm wondering if 1.5'' combined with a metal reinforcing grid would be enough. (queue jokes) The frame has a cross-member at the middle, with two equal areas roughly 24'' x 29'' that will be unsupported and that would need to support at most 200 lbs. (US) I'm not opposed to adding a second cross-member or another .5'' of thickness, I just don't want to make it any heavier than it needs to be.
If any of you have done this before, understand the structural properties/limitations/best practices of concrete, please share! Thanks and have a great weekend!
"Go forth into the source" - Neal Morse
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I can't speak to the properties of concrete or best practices on using it, however reading your plans...
I'd suggest pouring the top as two separate pieces if it's feasible. That'll make it easier to get them in there once set, and far easier to move later if you have to.
My two cents.
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I (and my back) agree with you, but she who must be obeyed loved the thought of concrete, as it would be seamless... I'm guestimating the finished weight at around 225 lbs. as currently designed...definitely a two person job to move it!
"Go forth into the source" - Neal Morse
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Instead of an in situ pour.
Why not pour it as face-down, then you can fill some of the volume that won't show with a sheet of 3/4 plywood which is lighter than the equivalent volume of concrete and gives strength and, if you leave it exposed on the "bottom" surface (top of the inverted pour), it can be used to attach the slab to the frame?
Just a thought...
A positive attitude may not solve every problem, but it will annoy enough people to be worth the effort.
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The problem there is finding something smooth enough to pour onto -- every wrinkle, nook, and cranny will be there for ever, once it's cured.
There's no reason not to put the ply in the shutter, though. It's quite a common practice to use ply or expanded polystyrene to reduce the load. They also absorb vibrations, which can actually make the slab more durable.
I wanna be a eunuchs developer! Pass me a bread knife!
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Hi Mark, I'm actually using a sheet of thin furniture backing board on top of a sheet of .5'' as the bottom of the mold, which will be the table top. I'm also putting in concave trim around the edges hopefully for a nice rounded edge. If I have to go thicker than 1.5'' I may need to worry about the weight.
Also, regarding your other post below about getting the air bubbles out, I don't have a roto-hammer, but I do have an old 2x12 stage monitor and a 300W amp! The forming/pouring will be done on my 4x8 workshop table so I can put the speaker underneath and vibrate the hell out of it...I just need the right music...something like the black album by Metallica should work! (evil laugh) This is sure to annoy the neighbors!
"Go forth into the source" - Neal Morse
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kmoorevs wrote: This is sure to annoy the neighbors! I know some other ways to annoy the neighbours, if you need help with that.
the vibration isn't only to get rid of air bubbles, though; it's to form a layer of grout on the outside of the slab, so make sure you do enough neighbour-annoying! It wouldn't do to not annoy them enough!
I wanna be a eunuchs developer! Pass me a bread knife!
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Over here you can usually rent a cement vibrator at a hardware store.
Tomorrow I'm seeing my brother that's a mechanical engineer, I'll check with him if he has any pointers.
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