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I covered that!!  It's on the bloody motherboard! But since I know nothing of his surface-mount soldering skills, I didn't want to walk him through replacing it. He could do more harm than good, especially if he gets the streams crossed! Oh God - then what??
Dave Kreskowiak
Microsoft MVP - Visual Basic
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Are the drives spinning? When you unplug your pc, is there anything connected to your computer (through USB) that gets power?
If you can unplug your pc, and the running light is still on, then that would have to be the power supply.
Trinity: Neo... nobody has ever done this before.
Neo: That's why it's going to work.
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The drives were not spinning. It feel like all the input devices are disable. When I unplug it, it still has keyborad,mouse and phone set plugged in. The green light gets dimmer and dimmer and goes off after an hour or so. I think this is probably the feature to pretect power out but might turn out screw it up for me.
Thanks for the replies, any other thoguths are greatly appreciated,
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Well, it sounds like you should try replacing your power supply. But before you do, I would suggest taking your old one out and testing it in another computer (if you can). This way you can make sure it is the power supply, and not something else.
Trinity: Neo... nobody has ever done this before.
Neo: That's why it's going to work.
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STOP!! Before you follow Matrix's advice about putting a suspected bad power supply into a good machine...
Think about it. If the voltages and levels comming out of a PS are bad, what are the chances that they could blow anything you plug that PS into?? Pretty good...
You NEVER put a suspected bad PS into a known good machine. You always replace a suspected bad PS with a known good PS and see what happens. If the PS is bad, you won't blow a good motherboard. If the motherboard, or something else, is bad, the good PS will protect itself from an overload and shut itself off.
Dave Kreskowiak
Microsoft MVP - Visual Basic
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Thanks,
I will get a good PS and see how it goes. just to get my knowledge a bit more on this. The reset button seems to connect to the motherboard, when it is pressed and hold, a signal is sent to the motherboard to resstart the system. Am I right? If I am right,this could explain there is a possibility that the motherboard is bad. But the DVD button is not working as well, the DVD looks like was connected to PS directly, does it lead to that most likely is the PS?
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mhp130 wrote: The reset button seems to connect to the motherboard, when it is pressed and hold, a signal is sent to the motherboard to resstart the system.
More or less. Both the reset and power buttons are soft switches whose functions are controlled via the mobo. If the mobo isn't properly starting the PSU up that could be the problem. You can "jump start" an ATX PSU by using a paperclip to short the green wire to one of the black ones (this is what the mobo does in response to your pressing the power button). If all your drives spin up normally and will open the PSU is probably innocent.
--
Rules of thumb should not be taken for the whole hand.
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Alright, I change to a PS I know is good and "jump start" it The CD lights up and responds. It does not open up so it's not quite working nornally. The old PS does not do that so I guess the old PS is bad. Glad to have this at lease one step forward. But....
With the new good PS, the system is still dead. much like before. can you suggest what to do next?
Thanks
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Diconnect power to all the drives and everything else, except the motherboard. Power it up. If still nothing happens, then you've probably got a bad motherboard too.
Dave Kreskowiak
Microsoft MVP - Visual Basic
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Try placing the boot a little more to the left (or right) of the computer. Maybe it's too close to respond to it. Check the boot's antenna. If you have a heel-mounted antenna, that might be the problem.
"Why don't you tie a kerosene-soaked rag around your ankles so the ants won't climb up and eat your candy ass..." - Dale Earnhardt, 1997
-----
"...the staggering layers of obscenity in your statement make it a work of art on so many levels." - Jason Jystad, 10/26/2001
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Hello I need soft (program)
I must change my Serial numbers in my hard drive
PLZ who can help me .
Plz give me spoofer or program.
PLz help me.
I must change serial numbers hard drive
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If your talking about the drives hardware serial number, you can't change it. Well, not without writing your own IDE driver for Windows anyway.
Sorry, we're not going to help you fool a copy proection scheme. It's the only reason I can think of that you would want to do this.
Dave Kreskowiak
Microsoft MVP - Visual Basic
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Hi 
i am using Modem D-Link GLB 502T at my home. It works fine for first 2 to 3 hrs but after that it starts disconnecting for every 10 to 20 min.
i also spoke to service center they replied to switched off for certain peroid for every 2 hrs 
Is it the solution ? Can't we have some Good solution for it or is there any modem thats work fine continuesly
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Most BIOS allow the automatic power-on time to be set to a particular day and time. However, this is very inflexible as it requires manual intervention to make changes. Some PVR programs have the facility to power on the system at variable times, so I feel that there MUST be a way for a program to access these registers dynamically. Does anyone have any details, or alternatively, point me in the right direction for more information. Thanks in advance for any suggestions !
Doug
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I have killed my computer permanetly messing with
BIOS.
My suggestion is to leave it be and turn your
computer on manually.
"Shorter of breath,
and one day closer to death." ~Pink Floyd
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hello all
i am using intel P4 2.4MHz CPU with ASROCK motherboard
& i have winXp os
when i start my PC it boot well then the screen get blinking the display is like
asjdsgfcgwerwerwerdsfsdfsdf
sdgfkjdabgjlivogwerwerw
sdfgkjdfbvkjdvwerwersdfsd
wwerwerwerwerwerwerwdfsd
all content on screen get damage, spreade here & there
so can any one tell me what is the coz i am so ...
SP
--
Bugs can neither be created nor be removed from software by a developer. They can only be converted from one form to another. The total number of bugs in the software always remain constant.
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Bad RAM would be my first guess. Run memtest86[^] on the computer and see if it reports any problems.
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Hi,
Would like to know how the performance of the SAS drives is effected when you install SATA drives on the same controller?? If there is any performance effect, how does it change between using a 10k rpm ATA150 WD drives versus 7.2k rpm SATA 3.0Gb/s drives along with SAS drives. At present I am having 2 SAS drives in RAID0 configuration on the SAS controller. I need to increase the hard disk space to about 500GB and thinking of getting some SATA drives (since SAS drives are too costly).
-P
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I've just ordered 2 wd raptors that I had planned to raid-0 (in hardware) together.
But, I also like to have my data on a separate partition to my os.
For optimum speed, should I raid the 2 drives together and then partition that into 2 partitions, or should I just install the 2 drives as separate drives?
Thanks
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If you are after the speed, I would go with the 2 disks and 1 partition. The Reason: It is difficult to reinstall the OS on a RAID System (AFAIR installing a Driver is only possible during Windows Setup), so even if you have 2 partitions, you almost always have to start from scratch.
If speed is important for data access only, I would use a third disk and install the OS there (non-raid), then keep the data on the 2 raptors in a raid-0.
If you dont have a third disk, go with the 2 seperate disks. Use one for the OS and software, the second for data.
Cheers,
Sebastian
--
Contra vim mortem non est medicamen in hortem.
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Thanks for that.
I think that what I may do (as I only have space for 2 drives), is make it one raid-0 partition, and subst the data folder onto a different drive letter.
I like to keep the same data drive letter on all my computers, so that when transferring between them, any absolute paths remain the same.
Cheers,
Chris.
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So I've got a client that has just installed a LaserJet 5M onto an older than dust PC running Windows XP. The XP workstation has 256 MB Ram and about 4 half-starved hamsters for a processor. If I print from XP the characters look like a very long censored swear word with the strangest characters I've ever seen. If I print a test page from the printer itself it all looks just fine.
So I think that the parallel port on the XP box is hosed but I don't know how you would test that. I'm also wondering if there's anything else to do to try and check it or fix it? I'm also remoted on with LogMeIn so I'm not at the physical box and have zero desire to go there. I don't make weekend trips to breathe life into dinosaurs.
Any ideas? The next step is to have the client move it to LAN and try printing by IP and see if it has the same problem. If it doesn't then cool we know LPT1 is bad. Again any software that will test your LPT1 port and tell you if it's dead?
Did I ever mention that I hate hardware. I'd rather step through threads in the VC++ debugger of VS 2005 then even look sideways at an IDE cable. I've got Dell gold support on my desktop for the next 4 years and I couldn't be happier. 4 hours of down time maximum and they provide the technician and the parts for the party.
-- moved at 18:14 Sunday 28th January, 2007
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Well, i replied in The Lounge, but it ended up in Never-Never Land, so here it is again... (for what that's worth)
I used to sanity-check printers by typing
>copy con lpt1
No fancy gfx, no control codes...
^Z
> No idea if that still works, but if it'll print without problems then the issue is bad drivers; otherwise, check the cables, BIOS settings for LPT1, etc.
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