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Yes, it's a pity to throw hardware to the box of those old things that never are used again, but well, it happens so as you say about equations... it's better to spend time in other things...
And that graphics card is very cheap so this is not a big deal, it was more related to the fact that I wanted to make it work...
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Joan Murt wrote: Yes, it's a pity to throw hardware to the box of those old things that never are used again,
then again you never know what'll come out of that box to be used again someday. Last weekend the cheap mobo with onboard gfx I was using for my spare box died. I had an available replacement, but it didn't have onboard gfx. Rather than spend $30 on a new cheap PCIe card, I installed a PCI matrox card from a 1997 vintage P1. I'd originally intended to ebay the mobo I used but probably wouldn't get more than $80 for it if that, a good 939 mobo with onboard gfx would be ~$70 so the antique card was the cheapest option. For normal use that box just crunches einstien@home so it doesn't need a highend gfx card, and if my main box goes down I can borrow the card in it until I rebuild.
--
Rules of thumb should not be taken for the whole hand.
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Yes, that's the main idea on having that box in the darkest part of our office, sometimes it's handy, but rarely and it becomes easily forgotten...
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I dont think you can use the integrated and discrete card at the same time.
if you really wanted to Extend you desktop to second display why dont you just use intergrated card and attach a second display via some ADD card.
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hI aLL ANY ONE DESIGNED MODBUS IN c#
SAS
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Hi
I Wanna know that is there a standard set of BIOS Interrupts for each and every Video card or I have to do Programmed I/O to access video card.
In case there are set of interrupts please let me know or if i hav to do I/O then let me direct to some link where I can found the port addresses with specification(i mean standard set).
hope somebody answers me soon.
bye
pitchu
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It's about time I upgraded my old DLink DI-714P+ to something newer. If anyone has had any recent experienced with buying a gigabit (yes, I'm looking for something that is gigabit) router (yes, specifically a router. not a switch or a hub) with _more than 4 ports_, please post what you recommend. I did a quick search, but nothing stood out. I didn't dig in much, due to lack of time.
Hmm, if it makes any difference, this is for a home network, not office or antyhing like that. But we _do_ have quite a few machines at home, hence the need for at least 5 ports.
Thanks in advance,
Anton A.
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Could you please post your old DLink specs?
You might be looking for a L3-Switch integrated in a router, not a router per se.
Since your especially asked for a multi-port routers: The ones I know are modular frames (port extensions cost extra) and start at 10000 monetary units (Cisco Catalyst, 3Com routers), used.
You might just be wanting to route out of a local network (one external connection, 4+ internal connections, which could easily be done with a L3-Switch).
But without more details, I am afraid that is all I can provide you with.
€dit:
Mangaged Layer 3 12-port 10/100/1000-Ethernet Switch:
Netgear GSM7312 (ca. 1000 USD)
Unmanaged Desktop 8-Port 10/100/1000-Ethernet Switch:
Netgear GS608 (ca. 70 USD)
You could combine the last one with a single-port Gigabit-Router and would receive a 7-Port-Gigabit Router with Gigabit Capability for around 150 - 200 USD.
If you need ADSL, I suggest using a single-port GBit-Router with integrated ADSL+-Modem connected to the same switch.
Cheers,
Sebastian
--
Contra vim mortem non est medicamen in hortem.
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Hi,
I need to measure the temperature of CPU.
I understand that I have to use WMI for this.
Using wbemtest.ext when I connect to the namespace root\WMI and in the query, type 'select * from MSAcpi_ThermalZoneTemperature' , I get 'null' value for 'current temperature'.
Does that mean that I will not be able to measure the CPU temperature?
If this is not the method, can anyone please help me with measuting CPU temp?
Any info in this regard will be very useful.
Please also direct me , if this is not the correct section (hardware) to post this message. I will post it in a correct section.
Thanks,
Manasi
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Hello Manasi and welcome to CodeProject!
For you question, I only have to say that some motherboards do not support measuring CPU temperature, so I suggest that you go to the manufacturer website (or the manual if you have it) and check that first.
Other than that, I don't think I can help much as I've never had the need to check the CPU temperature programatically.
P.S. change your display name to something more descriptive than a blank space 
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Thank you for your reply..will check the manual..and have changed the display name as well 
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1) The onboard CPU temperature monitoring circuitry is notroiously unreliable and inaccurate.
2) Just find and download a problem like Motherboard Monitor. It will also report system fan speeds and stuff like that.
"Why don't you tie a kerosene-soaked rag around your ankles so the ants won't climb up and eat your candy ass..." - Dale Earnhardt, 1997
-----
"...the staggering layers of obscenity in your statement make it a work of art on so many levels." - Jason Jystad, 10/26/2001
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MBM hasn't been updated for new chipsets in several years. The current replacement is a program called speedfan.
--
Rules of thumb should not be taken for the whole hand.
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WMI will only work if the MoBo manufacturer has supplied WMI Providers to allow WMI to get at that kind of data. Most manufacturers do NOT supply this stuff. Again, check with the manufacturer for some kind of management software package.
Dave Kreskowiak
Microsoft MVP - Visual Basic
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Hello,
I have an old Panasonic KX-P2023 dot matrix printer. Whenever I print from a Windows program, it prints in letter-quality mode with proportional fonts, but I would prefer it to print in DOS mode.
I am able to get it to print in DOS mode from a command prompt using the "print" command, but how can I configure windows ( or maybe the print driver ) so that it will print in DOS mode from Visual Studio, and other GUI programs?
Thanks a lot,
Rich
--------------------------------
"All that is necessary for the forces of evil to win in the world is for enough good men to do nothing" -- Edmund Burke
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I think you're looking for this[^].
Dave Kreskowiak
Microsoft MVP - Visual Basic
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Hi Dave,
Thank you for that, very much.
I was looking for something more along the lines of a way to set the print options in Windows so that the printer would operate in DOS mode automatically from any application.
I appreciate you taking the time to answer my post,
Rich
--------------------------------
"All that is necessary for the forces of evil to win in the world is for enough good men to do nothing" -- Edmund Burke
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Richie308 wrote: would operate in DOS mode automatically from any application.
There's no such thing. About the best you're going to get is to install the Generic Text Only printer (Start/Settings/Printers/Add) and not use the driver specifically for your printer.
Dave Kreskowiak
Microsoft MVP - Visual Basic
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Hi,
I've recently upgraded my (Dell Inspiron 8500 - about 3 years old) laptop's internal hard drive to a 160GB Seagate. I've had it for a few months now and every month or so when booting it would get passed the POST, then leave me with a flashing underscore in the top left. Windows wouldn't start (even after playing with fixmbr and fixboot in the recovery console) so I've had to reinstall. This has happened twice since I installed it.
After playing around and trying to think of reasons why this was happening, I noticed that the BIOS reported the size of the hard drive as 137GB and not the full 160GB (not even the 149GB after formatting). After some googling I'm fairly certain it's because of a lack of 48bit LBA support (ATA-6). This seems to be fixed in most cases by upgrading the BIOS (i'm on v3 currently and the newest available is v8, so it should, hopefully, work).
I am a little anxious about performing a BIOS flash because if it were to go wrong I'd be left with an expensive paper-weight, wouldn't I? What's your experience with upgrading BIOSs?
The program that performs the flash is advertised as being able to be run straight from Windows (and it will shut down, reboot, flash, then reboot for you) or from a bootable pure DOS disk. Are there advantages to the latter technique? I've heard people say that it's safer, but I can't really see why.
Many thanks for any help
Will.
“Accept that some days you are the pigeon, and some days you are the statue” -- David Brent
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I've never had a problem doing a bios flash. the only advantage of a floppy flash is that youdon't run te risk of if failing due to a BSOD elsewhere in the system, from win2k forward that isn't a major concern although I would recommend closing all your existing apps first.
For a desktop you can generally get the mobo maker to send a replacement chip for a small ($10ish) fee/deposit. for a laptop though I suspect you may have to send it back to the manufacturer.
--
Rules of thumb should not be taken for the whole hand.
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Thanks for the reply,
dan neely wrote: For a desktop you can generally get the mobo maker to send a replacement chip for a small ($10ish) fee/deposit. for a laptop though I suspect you may have to send it back to the manufacturer.
My laptop's quite a long while out of warranty which is worrying. Hmm I guess I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and just do it
Thanks again,
Will
“Accept that some days you are the pigeon, and some days you are the statue” -- David Brent
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Doing in under Windows is no safer than doing it from a DOS-based boot floppy. I've had BIOS upgrades fail in both cases... and in both cases, it required sending the motherboard back to be replaced. Once a BIOS upgrade fails, chances are your machine will never startup again. As a matter of fact, there's a machine (Dell Optiplex GX260) sitting next to my desk right now that I have to get a new motherboard for because the BIOS upgrade hung for about 2 hours and I finally had to turn the machine off. She didn't startup back up, no POST, no nothing...
If you're going to do a laptop, power the machine completely off, don't hibernate, sleep, soft reboot, shut it down. You want the machine to startup from a powered off condition. Attach it to AC power and make sure the machine is charging the battery. Some BIOS upgrade apps won't do the upgrade if the machine is running on battery power.
Turn the machine on and boot it from the upgrade floppy and continue as per the instructions. Or, if your doing it from Windows, login to the machine, but right after you type your password and hit Neter, hold down the Shift key to stop Windows from loading all the automatic startup junk. You want Windows to be as lean as possible and not be interrupted during the upgrade.
You can take all the precautions in the world, but that's no guarantee that the upgrade won't fail.
Dave Kreskowiak
Microsoft MVP - Visual Basic
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Thanks for the tips 
Dave Kreskowiak wrote: Attach it to AC power and make sure the machine is charging the battery.
Do you think it would be better to remove the battery and have it run purely on AC power?
Dave Kreskowiak wrote: right after you type your password and hit Neter, hold down the Shift key to stop Windows from loading all the automatic startup junk.
I never knew you could do that - very handy
Dave Kreskowiak wrote: You can take all the precautions in the world, but that's no guarantee that the upgrade won't fail.
Yeah, I guess I'm just going to have to do it hope for the best.
Thanks for all the help,
Will
“Accept that some days you are the pigeon, and some days you are the statue” -- David Brent
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Will Harrower wrote: Do you think it would be better to remove the battery and have it run purely on AC power?
Probably not a good idea. If the power fails during the flash, chances are that the laptop will keep running from the battery.
Will Harrower wrote: Yeah, I guess I'm just going to have to do it hope for the best.
I don't believe the BIOS is the problem of your recurring start-up trouble.
If it was, the boot sequence should fail every time.
We have had this happen with prematurely released "stable" version of several bootmanagers (including both Commercial- and OS-Software): They would accidentally kill the "active"-flag of the Windows partition during startup.
Does the computer boot from a CD if the CD is the primary boot device? If so, try UBCD (Ultimate Boot CD). Does the device exist? If so, try examining the partition table for any oddities.
One other thing: Try reading the HDD's SMART-status (with smartmontools, for example) and see if there are any errors after on of the freezes. The Community is pretty helpful in interpreting the results.
Cheers,
Sebastian
--
Contra vim mortem non est medicamen in hortem.
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Hi,
Thanks for the suggestions, I shall look into them soon (I'm a bit busy at the moment with a big coursework project).
Sebastian Schneider wrote: Probably not a good idea. If the power fails during the flash, chances are that the laptop will keep running from the battery.
Very good point, I shall charge it and leave it in.
Sebastian Schneider wrote: I don't believe the BIOS is the problem of your recurring start-up trouble.
If it was, the boot sequence should fail every time.
Really? I did some research into the issue, before I came to the conclusion it was my BIOS, and found this PDF[^] which talks about the introduction of 48bit addressing support in ATA-6. On page 6 in the "Solutions exist!" section:
Solutions exist! Most motherboards have built-in connectors for the hard drive and CD-ROM drives. 40-pin ribbon cables connect the drives to the motherboard. These motherboard connectors are often labeled IDE Channel 0 and Channel 1. They are also called Primary Port and Secondary Port. Both are the same. The system BIOS auto-detects the hard disc drive and issues an inquiry to get the drive's number of LBAs. The largest number it is prepared to receive may be 137GB. In this case you might check with your system manufacturer for a BIOS upgrade. Many namebrand systems have the ability to "flash" the BIOS with new firmware.
This is what my BIOS is doing. It's reading the size of the hard drive as 137GB exactly. Also from the same page of the pdf:
Solutions exist! Without proper support, writing or saving data past the boundary line will wrap around to the front of the file system and overwrite all of your file system information, effectively erasing your drive.
This is the part that made me think it's the problem I'm having - I exceed the 137GB limit and end up writing data over the MBR, etc.
Please say so if you still think I'm wrong about this, but to me it looks like this is the issue I'm having
Many thanks,
Will.
“Accept that some days you are the pigeon, and some days you are the statue” -- David Brent
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