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personaly when i hook my guitar to my computer i use a mix on the outside of my computer and hook the mixer to my computer and i have the mixer hooked up to my guitar 
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I'm looking for a low-profile AGP Graphics card with (at least) dual DVI outputs.
There are plenty of dual-DVI cards on the market, but since I need a low-profile version there aren't too many to choose from.
I've so far only come accross the Matrox Millenium G550[^], but it has only 32MBs of RAM. That seems a bit low for a new card now...
Any recomandations?
-arjan
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A 3D one if I can find it... (But maybe thats a "nice-to-have" and not a "need-to-have".) Its for my home computer...
Thanks for the links. I'll look into those...
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how soon do you need it? almost everything is going dual DVI soon. There was one half-height 3D card that was AGP based, but it isn't released yet. I haven't seen any others.
_________________________
Asu no koto o ieba, tenjo de nezumi ga warau.
Talk about things of tomorrow and the mice in the ceiling laugh. (Japanese Proverb)
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I can wait... (Vacation and honeymoon starting this weekend.)
Do you have a link to that one?
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hi there,
i've bought a new hdd (160 gigs). my box was running prior with one hdd 80 gigs (master) and a second hdd 40 gigs (slave). i rearranged the hdds now so, that the 160 is master and the 80 is slave (the reason for the update was, that the 40 gigs died).
after hardware installation, the bios says I'm having a 160g as the master (correct) and a 32g as the slave (wtf???). upon examining the bios settings of the slave hdd, I learn that the type of the hdd is correct, only that there are a couple of gigs missing (48, to be precise).
for testing purposes I've taken a different hdd from a completely different box and exchanged it with the current slave. bios reflects the hdd change (the type of the new hdd is displayed), but still shows me 32g as the maximum capacity.
it seems that bios has persistet those 32g max capacity somehow. not knowing what to do next, i removed the battery of the bios for some time and retried. still, the max capacity is set to 32g.
looking up the documentation of the motherboard (asrock k7 upgrade 600) i couldn't find any information as of how to reset the bios.
i usually don't suffix my postings with 'Urgent', but in this case i'm pretty desperate, since this is my devbox and as a freelancer, I've got to get back to work tomorrow...
any hints are very welcome!
/matthias
I love deadlines. I like the whooshing sound they make as they fly by.
[Douglas Adams]
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Probably not much of an hint as I don't remember how it was called, but I think most motherboards have a jumper which - when set - resets the bios when you turn on the computer. From my experiences so far this jumper is mostly seperated from others on the Mb.
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What is the make/model of your HDD?
I know the Hitachi 80GB models have a jumper to restrict the size to 32GB. Is it possible that you have set this jumper by accident?
Michael Martin
Australia
"I controlled my laughter and simple said "No,I am very busy,so I can't write any code for you". The moment they heard this all the smiling face turned into a sad looking face and one of them farted. So i had to leave the place as soon as possible."
- Mr.Prakash 24/04/2004
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If you put the new drive in place of the 160GB that is reported correctly, does it still say its 32GB?
I would also try putting the second drive as primary on the second IDE channel.
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(from an earlier reply)...I recall that some older BIOSs do not support the 48-bit LBA that is needed to access more than 128GB on a drive. See this[^]
Also, there was an earlier BIOS max of 32GB. Did you chech the motherboard manufacturere website to see if they have a BIOS upgrade available for your board?
Also according to this[^] Win2K FAT32 partitions can be no more than 32GB.
Steve
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Although it shouldn't affect this, verify that LBA (Logical Block Addressing) is enabled in the BIOS. This used to be an issue back in the bad old days of Win95/98 at the 528MB disk size boundary. I wouldn't expect this to help, but you sound desperate - let's try anything at all that might help. 
Have you checked for a BIOS update from the MB manufacturer? That would be my next step. In the meantime you might try moving the 80GB drive to the secondary IDE channel and let it be Master there.
"...putting all your eggs in one basket along with your bowling ball and gym clothes only gets you scrambled eggs and an extra laundry day... " - Jeffry J. Brickley
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Hi everybody. Thanks for all your suggestions. I've checked each and every answer and the problem is solved. The HDD had a pretty confusing documentation of how the jumper must be set. Accidentally I set the jumper to limit the disks capacity to 32 gigs. I probably would have found out sooner, but when I placed the same disk (with the same jumper setting) into the master position, the jumpersetting did not cause the limitation. Bios showed an 80 gigs hdd which is perfectly right. only when put into a slave position, the jumper affected the hdd's max capacity.
Don't know why that is. At least I've set up the box by now (I'm already posting this message from it
I'd like to thank you all for your input. Without it, I'd probably would have gone mad... 
/matthias
I love deadlines. I like the whooshing sound they make as they fly by.
[Douglas Adams]
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How are the mouse keyboard and screen cables built up?
And what is the output of them?
If I for example press K on the keyboard, what happends?
The PROgrammer Niklas Ulvinge aka IDK
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If you press K there will be an interrupt, and the device driver will read some port data which represents a scan code. This scan code is translated to an ascii code (the current code page is used for translation).
Isn't it easy? 
Don't try it, just do it! 
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The scan code will also be dependent on the mode the keyboard is in, XT or AT.
You will actually also get 2 scan codes. The first is termed a "make code" which occurs when the key is pressed. The second is a "break code" which is sent when the key is released. In XT mode this is simply distinquished by setting the high bit of the scan code for a break code and clearing it for a make code. You then have two sets of extended keys which are "E0" and "E1" prefixed followed by one or two more scan codes to represent the key.
AT protocol is a bit different. Make codes and Break Codes I believe are prefixed instead of setting the high bits (if my memory serves me correctly). As far as I remember, Windows 9x still actually set the keyboard into XT mode so break codes and make codes were determined using the high bits (and some keyboards would send E1/E0 for a break code you'd have to do special detection, I believe that perhaps the PC98 may have done this but I don't remember, been a while since I wrote a keyboard filter).
8bc7c0ec02c0e404c0cc0680f7018827ebee
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I think my PC is slowly dying .... might be software related also...
When accessing my external firewire drive, windows tells me that the drive is not formatted.
CD and CD-R are not recognized.
any good hard-ware reporting/problem finder tool ( and how-to )?
I don't need this now, I don't want to re-install, or worse, buy another computer; the least I will do is get another hard-drive to make a backup.
Thanks.
Maximilien Lincourt
Your Head A Splode - Strong Bad
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Maximilien wrote:
any good hard-ware reporting/problem finder tool ( and how-to )?
Look Here
hope it helps 
"Go as far as you can see,and when you get there you’ll see further" - Unknown
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I'm lookng for a midrange 19" LCD Monitor, ( << €400) - what is really important?
Do I need high reaction speed (<20ms) for coding?
How much better is the image with an DVI connector? (my graphics card does it)
Any brand (dis-)recommendations? Why is Eizo so much more expensive?
How much contrast, brightness is ok?
(I have a very windowy office, but need to lower blinds anyway at brightest time of day)
Pandoras Gift #44: Hope. The one that keeps you on suffering.
aber.. "Wie gesagt, der Scheiss is' Therapie"
boost your code || Fold With Us! || sighist | doxygen
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I would, when in doubt, always go for the higher reaction ones. You DO notice slow reaction when coding, though its usually "acceptable". These times indicate the time it takes for the LCD to switch from "all black" to "all white" (or vice versa, not sure). If you want to play fast games, it is a must, if you code, you still might experience some "fogging", which can be annoying.
The image quality is better with an DVI-Connector. You have to consider, though, that LCD-panels STILL show different colors from different angles. Almost not noticeable on high-end devices, but in the print industry it still makes a difference.
I would go for Samsung or Ijiyama (Not sure if I got that name right). They are GOOD, but also quite pricey.
Eizo is "THE" company when it comes to displays (CRT and LCD). They have top-quality, excellent service and support.
As for contrast and brightness: depends. I usually use my LCD in a seperate room which has "dimmable" lights, so I can adjust my light levels to what is most comfortable. However, the display should have an even backlight distribution.
In bright light, CRTs usually are easier to read. You might ask for some LCDs to "compare" before deciding on one. Some companies still do that
Cheers
Sebastian
Cheers,
Sebastian
--
Contra vim mortem non est medicamen in hortem.
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All these things depend on what you are using the monitor for.
A high reaction speed is not the most important thing, but it should be 20ms or less because you will see the mouse cursor and many other things with a nice blur effect (can be quite funny indeed ).
A higher reaction speed is only interesting for games, especially for first-person shooters.
But take care: 20ms is not 20ms.. it depends on the monitor size. 20ms on a 17" monitor will look much faster as on a 19" only because of the size!
DVI connection normally creates a better picture, but the new monitors have very good analog inputs, too.
Another important thing is the correctness of the colors. Some monitors have big problems with colors, and that is important when you are editing images from a digital camera. There are many nice websites about TFTs, e.g. http://www.prad.de[^].
Additionally there is the question of the surface of the monitor. The light situation in your computer room is important! When the room behind you is very bright or the sun is shining at the monitor is may be better to use a rough surface to reduce reflections.
There are also monitors with a DCC/CI interface which makes it possible to setup color management and many other settings with a software, but I think this is only interesting for image editing.
Sometimes it makes sense to buy a monitor that was a demonstration model in a hardware shop because you can check it for dead pixels. Normally it takes some time till pixels turn off, and so you will have black or other colored spots on the monitor.
Take your time and read test reports to find a good monitor... have fun
Don't try it, just do it!
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Thanks for your comments - prad.de looks interesting.
The order will go out monday or tuesday, and will be delivered (or picked up by our tech), it got to be 19", and I can't try before buy
(the funs of buying on budget)
currently I'd go with the recommendation for the Acer AL1913s
Pandoras Gift #44: Hope. The one that keeps you on suffering.
aber.. "Wie gesagt, der Scheiss is' Therapie"
boost your code || Fold With Us! || sighist | doxygen
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Personally I like to look at LCD monitors, the quality of the black level (i.e. how grey is it ?) varies.
Elaine ![Rose | [Rose]](https://codeproject.freetls.fastly.net/script/Forums/Images/rose.gif)
The tigress is here 
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