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Sweet supply, Mike! That SO is definitely a keeper!
Somewhere around here I've got a Heathkit 0-15V dual power supply I built in the 70s. If I ever find it, I wonder if it will still work?
Will Rogers never met me.
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Yeah it's been a real work horse, I hate to replace it but it's time.
Coincidently the one I had prior to this one was a R175921 Heathkit IP-2718 Tri-Power Variable Power Supply | eBay[^]. When I upgraded to the B&K I gave it to a friend of mine that was just getting into electronics. He's had it for 10 years and as far as I know it's still truckin.
Back when they built stuff to last!
Give me coffee to change the things I can and wine for those I can not!
PartsBin an Electronics Part Organizer - An updated version available! JaxCoder.com
Latest Article: Simon Says, A Child's Game
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I had a large 300w air blower go out recently. It seemed like a solid build, but then I noticed that there were a few lead wires that were aluminum. After running 24x365x a few years, the aluminum had oxidized away. I replaced the leads with a good copper wire and it fired back up.
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I think it was in the 70s they used to wire houses with aluminum and it was not good.
When I did remodeling I would run across a house that was wired with aluminum, very rare now a-days.
Give me coffee to change the things I can and wine for those I can not!
PartsBin an Electronics Part Organizer - An updated version available! JaxCoder.com
Latest Article: Simon Says, A Child's Game
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Gold wiring is the best.
"A little time, a little trouble, your better day"
Badfinger
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For electronics contacts - yes. Even if it is available, I doubt whether many of us can afford to wire their entire house with gold wiring.
Freedom is the freedom to say that two plus two make four. If that is granted, all else follows.
-- 6079 Smith W.
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Actually, silver is the best conductor.
But gold has the advantage of being more durable due to
its high resistance to corrosion, tarnishing and oxidation.
So for critical connections gold is the preferred conductor.
Order of least resistive and most conductive
Silver
Copper
Annealed Copper
Gold
Aluminum
"A little time, a little trouble, your better day"
Badfinger
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SCAGA
Yes, long time since I heard this.
Thanks.
You have re-educated me.
"Rock journalism is people who can't write interviewing people who can't talk for people who can't read." Frank Zappa 1980
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You are welcome. I just sharing my own re-education.
"A little time, a little trouble, your better day"
Badfinger
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You really get purity of sound when listening to the electric hum.
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The AL wire wasn't the problem. The problems were not being aware of the importance of anti-corrosion measures (especially when joining Al and Cu) and the need to enforce a torque spec on all screw down connections.
AL has always been used without problem for heavy gauge feeder lines, and if connected properly is perfectly safe for standard outlets and hard wired devices. The initial standards for using it with 15/20A circuits was just 🐘💩.
Did you ever see history portrayed as an old man with a wise brow and pulseless heart, weighing all things in the balance of reason?
Is not rather the genius of history like an eternal, imploring maiden, full of fire, with a burning heart and flaming soul, humanly warm and humanly beautiful?
--Zachris Topelius
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I imagine, given the age and solidity of your supply, that the first thing after the fuse is a hefty transformer. Unfortunately if there is a short on the primary (or even secondary) then getting it rewound is going to cost more than your car.
An alternative point of failure (and hopefully more probable) is the rectifier bridge(s) after the transformer. That should be a very cheap fix.
Time to get the ohmmeter out!
So old that I did my first coding in octal via switches on a DEC PDP 8
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My mind immediately though "hmm, you could be onto something..." the danger if the transformer insulation is going is fix it in one place it will pop in another, a possibility I can't lay hands on the link but there was an eBay seller who had a lot of spares for Heath-Kit, Crown and others. Mind you the thing is 'To fix the fault that caused the fault'.
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Shocking!
Freedom is the freedom to say that two plus two make four. If that is granted, all else follows.
-- 6079 Smith W.
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I was thinking more along the lines of a small thermonuclear device.
Give me coffee to change the things I can and wine for those I can not!
PartsBin an Electronics Part Organizer - An updated version available! JaxCoder.com
Latest Article: Simon Says, A Child's Game
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I'd be happy to load you up some fuses, Mike, but primers are awfully expensive and rare right now.
Will Rogers never met me.
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Damn regulations, stumps are awfully hard to get out by hand.
Give me coffee to change the things I can and wine for those I can not!
PartsBin an Electronics Part Organizer - An updated version available! JaxCoder.com
Latest Article: Simon Says, A Child's Game
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Fuses do actually degrade with age, especially if the're rated a bit near the running current. The inlet fuse will almost certainly be subject to many times its rated current for a short interval every time the PSU is powered up (due to charging up capacitors), and each time they'll warm up a bit and lose a bit more "life". Could be your fuse just got too old and tired.
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We have a lot of power glitches here also. We live in a very small community way out in the country. We're so far out they have to pipe sun shine into us!
Give me coffee to change the things I can and wine for those I can not!
PartsBin an Electronics Part Organizer - An updated version available! JaxCoder.com
Latest Article: Simon Says, A Child's Game
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Interesting. When I search digikey for "fuse", I get a lot of them. Filter on product status: active, mounting type: requires holder, fuse type: cartridge, glass and I got over 1600 hits. Most of them can be ordered as single, but some can only be ordered in quantity.
Or, just Google "old car fuses" since cars used to use the same type.
Have to keep this old equipment working. I hope it's just a problem with an old fuse for you and that the fuse blowing is not just a symptom of another issue.
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Hi,
I have to export a 'long' value from an unmanaged dll to a VB app.
I do this with other data types like int and bool, works fine, so I more or less know how do do it.
When I do the same with 'long' the call crashes.
Where there any samples out?
What is so special with 'long'?
Thanks for helping.
With best regards
Gerhard
extern "C" { __declspec(dllexport) long GetCurrentFileRawFilePointer (void); }
extern "C" { __declspec(dllexport) int AwaitCycleDoneFor (uint); }
extern "C" { __declspec(dllexport) bool isDataLinkClear (void); }
First line fails, other worked fine.
Declare Function GetCurrentFileRawFilePointer Lib "GeoMon4D_iMX7.dll" () As Long
Declare Function AwaitCycleDoneFor Lib "GeoMon4D_iMX7.dll" (timeout_ms As UInteger) As Integer
Declare Function isDataLinkClear Lib "GeoMon4D_iMX7.dll" () As Boolean
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GerhardKreuzer wrote: extern "C" { __declspec(dllexport) bool isDataLinkClear (void); } It's because of the extra spaces in this line.
Jeremy Falcon
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It's a long value, but the VB code requires a short - so you will need to zip the value - which should compress it nicely - and then pass it.
"I have no idea what I did, but I'm taking full credit for it." - ThisOldTony
"Common sense is so rare these days, it should be classified as a super power" - Random T-shirt
AntiTwitter: @DalekDave is now a follower!
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Better to remove the zero-bits because they are worthless anyway.
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