|
It was simply a design flaw in the Samsung or the WD router. I think. Automatic configuration just won't work, but setting the connection manually works great. This is only for this router, as far as I can tell, since the phone connects reliably at work or when I'm travelling.
Will Rogers never met me.
|
|
|
|
|
Let it configure automatically and copy and paste the settings here. It could be as simple as a gateway not getting set correctly, which should be a fixable issue.... unless you are perfectly happy with the static connection.
|
|
|
|
|
I'm a software engineer with little clue, so please bear with me here.
I have four devices that all have the same, factory-set, IP address, and I need to talk to all of them from the same PC.
The boss said "You should be able to do it with a NAT gateway router with port forwarding", which sounds more like buzzword bingo than any actually useful advice.
I think most cheapo home WiFi routers can do this, but I'm not sure what to look for. It needs to be reasonably cheap, have at least 5 ethernet ports (1 PC, 4 devices), and ideally be configurable so I can assign IP addresses to specific ethernet ports (so regardless of which device is plugged into port 3, it always have the same alias).
Please help?
|
|
|
|
|
Orjan Westin wrote: all have the same, factory-set, IP address
Then they cannot co-exist in the same network.
Try to find out how to configure their IPs properly, everything else will be a WTF.
|
|
|
|
|
That's why I need address translation. If I need to get one router for each, that's fine too.
But I can't configure their IPs, as this is for a factory test setup. Get four devices off the production line, put them in, run the tests. The tests take a few minutes, but are not limited by the PC, so if I can connect four devices and run the tests in parallel, it'll be an enormous time-saver.
|
|
|
|
|
You're in deep yogurt, then, because - by definition - no two devices with the same IP address is allowed to exist on one network. If you're planning to ship units that have to have the same IP address, your product will have a very short life cycle. But...
If, for purpose of factory testing, you need to do testing on 4 identical units at once, all with the same address, you have to configure each unit to listen for and respond to test commands on a specific port, and configure the test environment to use fixed addressing with no DHCP service active. You can then spoof the test network into thinking it's hosting one machine with 4 ports, and configure the main router to use port forwarding to talk to each of the machines on its distinct port.
A far better approach would be to either change the IP addresses of the UUTs and run the tests sequentially, or rewrite the tests to run on the UUT as it should be done, and again change the UUT IP address to be unique on the network. The advantage of the latter method is that the test code is downloaded to the UUT and allowed to run, without interaction from the other three machines or the host, until the test is complete. After a decent interval, the test host machine can poll each of the UUTs for test results. If they've blocked you somehow from changing the device IP addresses, tell them to enjoy carnal knowledge of a rolling donut, and go find a job with a real company that has a chance of remaining in business for a while. This one's doomed.
Will Rogers never met me.
|
|
|
|
|
Sorted: One router per device.
The WAN address of the routers statically set to unique addresses, which the PC uses as addresses to the devices.
The LAN address on the routers is set to be the same, i.e. the Default Gateway of the device, and the routers are set to do port forwarding to the device address.
Adds a few hundred bucks to the cost of the test station, which isn't too bad considering the test equipment is tens of thousands.
No need to make any custom settings on any devices, they already come with a static address and a default gateway set up. (The tests aren't run on the UUTs; the test PC is ordering the UUT to transmitt/measure received signals at various power levels andfrequencies.)
|
|
|
|
|
That's a workable solution, Orjan, given the constraints you're stuck with. 
Will Rogers never met me.
|
|
|
|
|
I am confused by terminology, again.
I got the wireless dongle installed, I got the network connected ( Dlink) but cannot get pass the "network key".
I tried "automatic assignment" and it did not work, I changed the network key manually - XP took it but still complains about it.
I am assuming it is not same as "user password" I set in Dlink.
I am obviously doing something very basic and stupid.
I followed few "how to set network key " but so far no go.
Would appreciate any help.
Cheers Vaclav
PS I need to get this setup on hardwired system so I can connect my sick PC using wireless connection, my NIC is busted on that PC.
|
|
|
|
|
You need to use the network key that is generated by your router. I have no idea what a Dlink looks like, but I suspect the password you set is just for access. Somewhere in the configuration wizard will be a section on Wireless Settings, where you choose WEP,WPA etc., and set the wireless access keys.
|
|
|
|
|
Yes, at that is the key I set and XP took it. But it still asks for it and does not like it.
|
|
|
|
|
There must be some mismatch or problem in the router. I have worked with a number of different routers and never come across such an issue.
|
|
|
|
|
The router has been set-up for Mac and works just fine.
That is why I am hesitant to reset to default.
I am tempted to temporary remove any security so I can get the other PC updated via internet,
That's is all I am after.
Maybe I should go to Wally's and buy me NIC with driver!
|
|
|
|
|
Vaclav_Sal wrote: The router has been set-up for Mac and works just fine.
Which has nothing whatsoever to do with your question or problem.
Vaclav_Sal wrote: Maybe I should go to Wally's and buy me NIC with driver!
Or just hit it with a hammer.
|
|
|
|
|
If your router looks like my old one, then there is a sticker on it somewhere stating what the key is. If that key does not work, then someone changed it - resetting the router to its defaults would fix that.
--edit
..am relearning the difference between its and it is.
Bastard Programmer from Hell 
If you can't read my code, try converting it here[^]
|
|
|
|
|
If I reset the router to defaults, will it reset the admin password too?
I think I can get a file of current options so I should be able to recover anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
I cannot guarantee; but it does reset my router to the factory-defaults, and *all* passwords (including admin). It's from the "Experia" line, but I reckon most routers behave like this.
Bastard Programmer from Hell
If you can't read my code, try converting it here[^]
|
|
|
|
|
Vaclav_Sal wrote: If I reset the router to defaults, will it reset the admin password too?
Yes, I've done this in the past when routers have gone crazy on me (looking at you Linksys ).
|
|
|
|
|
I like to update my video driver and have downloaded new dll.
When I try to paste it into \system32 I get two funky messages from XP.
The first one is busy calculating if I have enough disk space while the other cannot do the "paste" since someone is using the driver, duh!
I do not have .ini installation file.
Is using command and DOS copy my reasonable option?
Thanks
Cheers Vaclav
|
|
|
|
|
Vaclav_Sal wrote: Is using command and DOS copy my reasonable option?
Nope. You could overwrite the dll if you boot in safe mode, but there's a big chance that the system will stop working from that point forward.
A dll is a library, and it usually has dependencies on other libraries. The rest of the installation-package of the driver would not know about the updates in the new library, and try to call it the "old" way.
You'll need a complete driver.
Bastard Programmer from Hell
If you can't read my code, try converting it here[^]
|
|
|
|
|
Actually I am having second thoughts about updating the video driver.
I have on app which crashes my XP and the WndDbg indicates problem with video driver.
But - only one app has this problem, so logically it points to the app not liking this particular driver.
So I would not want to kill my whole PC for this stupid app problem.
Cheers
Vaclav
|
|
|
|
|
<pre lang="text"> Up font, I can reload it if necessary, but I HAVE to ask this stupid question.
I did clean install of XP from my original CD, but I did not have the internet connected.
And I really did not pay much attention to the process.
But it started and worked OK.
Now I have spare PC, currently not reassembled ( no keyboard or monitor) and no access to internet.
The $64 question:
Do I have broken network interface ( the PC was a"gift") or should I have internet plugged in during the install?
Or should I put it back together and let Device Manager find the network interface
with the live network plugged in?
PS I told you it was a stupid question, did't I?
Cheers Vaclav
</pre>
|
|
|
|
|
Vaclav_Sal wrote: or should I have internet plugged in during the install?
Nope, not required.
You might want to delete the driver, and then have Windows "search" for new hardware. When unsure about which driver to use, try something NE2000 compatible.
Deleting the driver can be done by opening the system properties, select "advanced", go to hardware tab, open device manager, find network-card, delete.
Bastard Programmer from Hell
If you can't read my code, try converting it here[^]
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks for reply.
The "problem " is the NIC driver was never installed and I am not sure about the motherboard hardware.
I tryed two drivers per manufacturer spec but neither one of them would start the NIC.
As soon as I figure out how to access / change / add password to my internet wireless "modem / router " I'll try to connect the new PC to the internet that way.
Since I have never used the wireless part it is another search for me, but I got the USB dongle connection working!
Cheers
Vaclav
|
|
|
|
|
Vaclav_Sal wrote: The "problem " is the NIC driver was never installed and I am not sure about the
motherboard hardware.
If there's no network adapter mentioned in the device manager, then it's not installed.
If it's plug and play hardware, your best bet is to hook it up to a system with an active internet connection. Add it to the system, not the manufacturer and model once it gets installed, then search Google for an offline installer.
Bastard Programmer from Hell
If you can't read my code, try converting it here[^]
|
|
|
|
General 
News 
Suggestion 
Question 
Bug 
Answer 
Joke 
Praise 
Rant 
Admin 
Submit an article or tip
